Ignition System - Electric Ignition
System - Pyrotechnic
Parts Needed
Project Electronic box
wire (Around 10ft Needed)
key switch
1x momentary switch
1x Led (Red or Green or Yellow) (up to you this for live power for batteries)
resistors (depends on your led) (18v 820ohms for me is grey red brown (32v is
1500ohms brown green red )
red and black wire
alligator Clips
solder
2x 9v batteries
2x 9v battery clips or 2x 9v battery holders or (DUAL 9v battery holders)
Tools Needed
Solder Iron
pliers
Optional Tools
Glue Gun
heart skink tube
Step 1, get you
alligator Clips
Step 2, and take off the cover just pull them off
step 3, Now take your wire
step 4, straighten the wire
step 5, now put knife in the middle of the wire and cut it down so you get two
wires ( be very care as the knife will very sharp)
step 6, now the wire should look like this
(black and red)
step 7, now put on your
alligator Clips cover on your wires
step 8, now scrip the wires and put the wire though the hold on your
alligator Clips
step 9, now run the scrip wire around back to the on hole
step 10, now should look this with the wire inside and scrip wire next to it
step 11, get some pliers and fold over then clip on the
alligator Clips this will stop the wire come out
step 12, now solder the scrip wire on the back and front
now two on them
step 13, now push your cover back on them
Battery run down
A, for 2 PP3 ENCLOSED BATTERY
HOLDER
B, dual PP3 ENCLOSED BATTERY HOLDER
C, 2 Battery Clips
step 14 A, fist look at the sold clip three is + -
you need to sold a wire form + to - this will connect the battery's so have so
you 18v dc over black and red lines
Step 14B, now for Dual Battery Holder easy look at the pic the
middle pin as + and -
Now run wire from + to -
now sold the wire on
Step 14C, now use 9v battery clip just take black connect red cable and the soda
them
The two wire left is your + and - wires
Step 15, now get your Project Electronic box
step 16, now your have 4 side
will work with 1, 2 take small sides
step 17,
mark out the canter best way put X on the box where lines meet that the canter
1. Top left botten right
2. top right bottem left
step 18, now dill out a hole in the canter just small to get your wire throw
step 19, now in over side on the box cut out you bartty hold ( if you use bareyer clip skip this part)
Step 20, now put in your bartty pack in you box ( If use clip just put barttys in
side)
Step 21, start x on your box
1. Top left botten right
2. top right bottem left
3.left midal right mideal
4.top midal borrn midal
then get your key and the momentary switch and led mark out where it going to go
(key switch go top and led then momentary switch)
step 22, now drill out your key switch ledand momentary switch
step 23, now put in your key switch, led, and momentary switch
Step 24, now get your wire with the a
alligator Clips put the over end into the hole you make in the box
put it to the battery then not wher come in so it when come out
then cut the wire get the middle two to wire black and red
step 25,
now soda the mail black wire and a over black wire to the ground -
and
soda over red
wire to + ( and put main wire to a side)
Step 26, now take the red wire form battery pack to top soda Pont on the key
switch and solders it to (oppression
heart skink tube put on wire forbe soldering the wire on )
Step 27, now take two wire and solder one form key switch to the momentary
switch
and
Form momentary switch to the + of the led ( make sure it same side at so this
the pic)
Step 28, now get a over wire solder it to the over solda Pont on the momentary
switch
step 29, now solder the wire to the mail red cable
Step 30, now if you follow me should this like this
Step 31, now take the black wire and put your resistor to it
then take the resistor to the led - ground
Step 32, ok now screw your Project box up your done
How To Uses
1, Take your
alligator Clips and hock them to the
Ni-chrome
wire or Electric Ignition
System
2, then go back form the
Ni-chrome
wire or Electric Ignition
System far as you can
3, put key in and turn to on
4, The led on so got power this press the momentary switch to send power to the
wire or
Electric Ignition
System
5, Then Turn key switch to off
These electronic igniters will reliably light any firework
with a fuse on it. They are designed to use in conjunction with my
Fireworks Controller, but can be used with any electronic controller that
you may have built already, or even any 12v battery. They are relatively simple
to construct and are made of common materials already available in your house or
at a local hardware store. You don't need nichrome wire to construct these
igniters.
Use these igniters ONLY IF:
It is legal to launch fireworks where you live
You are using factory/store bought fireworks
You are far away from dry grass
The launching area around the fireworks is clear
There are adequate safety features on your controller to
reduce the chance of an accidental detonation while connecting the igniters
The author (Systemf92) is not responsible for any
accident, damage, legal trouble, encounter with law enforecement or death that
may occur from the use of these electronic firework igniters. Use at your own
risk.
Step 1: Acquire your materials
The parts you will need shouldn't be to hard to find,
if you don't have them around your house, then your local hardware store
should carry them.
Parts Needed
Any small gauge insulated hookup wire, stranded or
solid, around 20-24AWG (Size doesn't matter that much, as long as
the gauge is not smaller than the steel wool you will be using. You
will need about 6" per igniter.)
Matches, one per igniter
Electrical tape
Grade #3 steel wool (commonly used to remove paint
and clean engines)
Tools Needed
Scissors (or teeth, for cutting electrical tape)
Wire strippers (if you don't have any, try using
scissors)
Step 2: Tape wires to the match
First, cut two 3" pieces of wire for your igniter. Strip about
1/2" off of each end. Line up the wires on both sides of a match, with one end
of the stripped wires lined up with the match head. Wrap electrical tape around
both wires and the match to hold them in place. Make sure they have stayed on
opposite sides of the match after you tape them to it. See the second picture
below for the placement of these wires.
Step 3: Wrap the match head with steel
wool
Now that the wires are taped to the match, we can add the
heating element, steel wool.
Take your ball of steel wool and look for a long, thick piece. The pieces
are not uniform throughout the ball, so find a good one that is about 3"
long. Extra length can be cut off when we are finished, so don't worry about
having a piece that is too long.
First, pinch the end of the steel wool strand between one of the wires and
the match, as seen in the first photo below. This will keep it from slipping
off when we wrap it around the match head.
Wrap the steel wool around the head, around the wire on the opposite side,
and back to the wire you started on. Then, do this once more (wrap it around
the match twice). When you have done this, you should have two strands of
steel wool crossing each side. See photos below for more detail.
The number of times you wrap the steel wool around the match head is
important because if the steel wool wraps around too many times it will just
conduct and not heat up. Too little, and it burns up before it can ignite
the match.
After wrapping the steel wool around twice, loop it around the wire you
started on a bunch of times to take up the extra length and hold it in
place.
Step 4: Secure the steel wool
After the steel wool is wrapped around the match and
connected to each wire, fold the ends of the wire back over the loops in
the steel wool to keep them from sliding off the end of the igniter.
This is the final step, and you are ready for ignition.
Step 5: Using the igniters
To use the igniter, connect it to a long run of two conductor
cable such as speaker wire with alligator clips on one end. Connect one
alligator clip to each lead on the igniter, as seen in the picture below.
Connect the opposite end of the long speaker wire to one channel on a
fireworks controller. These igniters are designed to be used with 12v DC
power, which is the right amount to correctly heat the steel wool. If you do not
feel up to the task of constructing an entire controller, using a 12v battery
will work fine too, just connect the leads of the speaker wire to the terminals
when you are ready to fire. This isn't the safest option, but it works.
Depending on the thickness of your speaker wire, you should be able to prop the
igniters up in a way that will keep them near enough to the fuse of a firework
to ignite it. Leaning the match heads right up against the fuse itself has
worked well for me so far.
Things to consider:
Make sure that the alligator clips are not touching each
other, as this would cause a short circuit
Make sure the exposed wires near the match head of the
igniter are not touching each other
If the igniter does not ignite after 1-2 seconds of
pushing on the ignition button (applying power to the circuit) stop pressing
it or you will short out your controller/battery because the full current is
flowing back to it, rather than having the resistance of heat in the steel
wool.)
When the igniter is used up, it ideally will completely
break the connection between the two wires, but sometimes it doesn't, so a
channel might show up on your controller as still being unfired, even if the
match has already been burnt up. Keep track of what you have fired already,
because there is usually at least one igniter that does this in a batch of
12 being used at once.
Video of ignition
Yea, most of the time it melts after use.
But Ni-chrome wire isn't that expensive so
:)
